I am back to Mumbai to get my flight to Singapore via Bangkok. Now I thought I could just hang out in the airport for 12 hours and catch up on Internet, calls home etc. but oh no am told this is just not possible unless I wish to sit outside the airport on a metal chair.....for 12 hours - I think not. End up forking out £40 for a hotel somewhere in the slums surrounding the airport. Air conditioned, hot water, and a TV....whoop luxury! Also manage to get a couple of hours kip as flight at 5am in the morning.
So this is it.....good bye India. Actually have a tear in my eye writing this as have enjoyed India immensely, a million times more than I ever thought I would. So many things have been new to me and alluring - the diversity of the country, the people, the food, spices, smells (some better than others), road mayhem, the cow's, the weather - I could go on and on and on. All I can say is that I recommend India to one and all. I will most definitely be back as I feel like I have only read the first couple of pages in what is a long and breathtaking novel.
Nameste.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti
So on my penultimate evening in India I decide to go and see Amma at one of her Brahmasthanam temples as she is currently on tour in Kerela. Known throughout the world as 'Amma, the Mother of all'. Motherhood, in its ultimate sense, has nothing to do with bearing a child, but with love, compassion and selflessness. It lies in totally giving one's self to others. Seeing the whole world as an extension of her own self, Amma is ever ready to fore go her own body's needs in order to bring a smile to someone's face, wipe their tears or to simply listen to their sorrows. The sweet manner in which she laughs and jokes with people, shares in their success and failure has endeared millions to her throughout the world.
Amma is also known as the hugging mother and she has been known to individually hug over 50,000 people in a day!!!
Apart from what I have explained above I did not really know much more regarding what I was going to be involved in during the evening ahead...
I arrive to a crowd of people heading down a long narrow road towards the Brahmasthanam, mainly local Indian's to Trivandrum and the odd Westerner dressed all in white (who I can only presume are avid followers of Amma). Amma's face is postered everywhere, there are book stalls, food & tea kiosks, and then one of the biggest cow's I've come across yet ambling down the street-now in my past cow experiences people are blind to their presence however this cow is really causing a stir and people are eager to get out of it's path so followed suit, I mean it was one massive cow!
You have to realise that I am fairly confused about what the hell is going on for the majority of the evening (nearly 5 hours) and there is a massive queue at least 1/2km long when I arrive however once purchased a ticket (51 rupee's in cost) I get told to walk straight through?!
I collect my clay pot of Ganga water covered with a coconut leaf from the Temple and take a seat next to some Indian women. There are hundreds of chairs all arranged in lines vertical to the stage with tables in front of each containing individual simple pots containing oil and wick, leaf, incense, and food. Later discover that these are all simple offerings which are made prior to meditation. Puja then commences....Puja is ritualistic worship of the Divine performed to keep us in harmony with cosmic forces, thereby removing and overcoming the sorrows of life and bringing spiritual upliftment. By doing puja, thoughts and vibrations of spiritual forces are created around us. These spiritual forces work to eliminate the negative influences in our life and help surround us with positive energy which can bring us peace of mind, material prosperity and enable us to more clearly touch the Divine, our true nature. WOW! Ha! Only down side of the evening is the whole thing is spoken in Malayalam so I do not understand the prayers recited, instructions for the puja, songs, mantra's (although these can be learnt over time) etc. So basically understand nothing - feel a bit like a lost puppy. Thankfully a very sweet Indian lady next to me helps me through a little and tend to just follow suit with what everyone else is doing.
She also tells me that Amma will individually hug everyone in the crowd plus those queuing outside and will most likely be there until 6am until she has seen everybody who wishes to meet her....incredible. Sadly I am too confused by the whole affair and decide that I would rather come back once a little more educated on Puja and the rituals to get my hug from Amma. I will most certainly be back at some point in the future. The whole evening is rather magical and omitting the fact that I am totally clueless still enjoy the evening. Only negative is that after the Puja has finished, each of the 2-3000 worshipers need to take their pot of blessed Ganga water back to the temple - so basically thousands of people scramble to get there first so they can be in early line for their hug with Amma. STAMPEDE! Actually thought I might suffocate - by the time get free I am ready to get my tuk tuk back to the safety of the hotel. Stop to buy a book on the way out though so can do a little reading as clearly need to.
Amma is also known as the hugging mother and she has been known to individually hug over 50,000 people in a day!!!
Apart from what I have explained above I did not really know much more regarding what I was going to be involved in during the evening ahead...
I arrive to a crowd of people heading down a long narrow road towards the Brahmasthanam, mainly local Indian's to Trivandrum and the odd Westerner dressed all in white (who I can only presume are avid followers of Amma). Amma's face is postered everywhere, there are book stalls, food & tea kiosks, and then one of the biggest cow's I've come across yet ambling down the street-now in my past cow experiences people are blind to their presence however this cow is really causing a stir and people are eager to get out of it's path so followed suit, I mean it was one massive cow!
You have to realise that I am fairly confused about what the hell is going on for the majority of the evening (nearly 5 hours) and there is a massive queue at least 1/2km long when I arrive however once purchased a ticket (51 rupee's in cost) I get told to walk straight through?!
I collect my clay pot of Ganga water covered with a coconut leaf from the Temple and take a seat next to some Indian women. There are hundreds of chairs all arranged in lines vertical to the stage with tables in front of each containing individual simple pots containing oil and wick, leaf, incense, and food. Later discover that these are all simple offerings which are made prior to meditation. Puja then commences....Puja is ritualistic worship of the Divine performed to keep us in harmony with cosmic forces, thereby removing and overcoming the sorrows of life and bringing spiritual upliftment. By doing puja, thoughts and vibrations of spiritual forces are created around us. These spiritual forces work to eliminate the negative influences in our life and help surround us with positive energy which can bring us peace of mind, material prosperity and enable us to more clearly touch the Divine, our true nature. WOW! Ha! Only down side of the evening is the whole thing is spoken in Malayalam so I do not understand the prayers recited, instructions for the puja, songs, mantra's (although these can be learnt over time) etc. So basically understand nothing - feel a bit like a lost puppy. Thankfully a very sweet Indian lady next to me helps me through a little and tend to just follow suit with what everyone else is doing.
She also tells me that Amma will individually hug everyone in the crowd plus those queuing outside and will most likely be there until 6am until she has seen everybody who wishes to meet her....incredible. Sadly I am too confused by the whole affair and decide that I would rather come back once a little more educated on Puja and the rituals to get my hug from Amma. I will most certainly be back at some point in the future. The whole evening is rather magical and omitting the fact that I am totally clueless still enjoy the evening. Only negative is that after the Puja has finished, each of the 2-3000 worshipers need to take their pot of blessed Ganga water back to the temple - so basically thousands of people scramble to get there first so they can be in early line for their hug with Amma. STAMPEDE! Actually thought I might suffocate - by the time get free I am ready to get my tuk tuk back to the safety of the hotel. Stop to buy a book on the way out though so can do a little reading as clearly need to.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
And then there was one....Moi
Had to bid farewell to Agnes at 6am this morning - her 2 week holiday is over. We've had a whirlwind journey around Kerela and it's been brilliant. Agnes - thanks for your great company and your kindness. Hope you enjoyed all those local trains, buses, and crazy tuk tuk's we dragged you on... Most people go back to England after India having tasted the spiritual meaning of life however you go back as a convert to electronica music - keep it hip & happening girl!Currently sitting at cyber cafe off promenade at Kovalam beach. Bit burnt - why does this always happen on your last day somewhere?! I think all the British holiday makers who used to do Benidorm in the 80's have come here..... It's a beautiful beach regardless and really not such a bad way to spend my day.
Amma is on tour in Trivandrum later so going to see her for a big old hug!
Friday, January 30, 2009
Slumdog Millianier
So me & Aggie are back in Trivandrum & meet Ashley at the Greenland Lodge - a sweet re-union! Get myself another pedicure & a manicure which are much needed, a good hour a half is spent by 2 Indian ladies buffing & filing my hands and feet - i am getting treated like a Queen. Nice job ladies.An old teacher of Ashley called Migs and his wife Sarah are in town so we all meet for dinner and then onto a showing of Slumdog Millionaire (or Millianier as spelt here) at one of the many cinema's in Triv. Skip the long queue full of Indian men as they have a ladies only queue (note not many Indian ladies at the cinema) - a savvy couple of Indian men take this opportunity to get us to pay for their tickets!!
The film starts with rapt applause from the audience (which is fairly cute) and continues at poignant moments throughout the film. Sadly a few initial scenes are not subtitled but kind of work out what is going on (will have to watch again at home to fill in the blanks). What an amazing film and brought back a few memories of Mumbai, including getting ripped off at Victoria Terminus station by our dear friend Sandy....
Go watch if you haven't already!!!
Paneer Butter Masala
In the profound words of Depeche Mode. Paneer Butter Masala. Just can't get enough..... someone please re-create. Beware of horrific calorie content (even though i'm told that sunflower oil is non fattening....hmmmm - really?)
PANNER BUTTER MASALA (Serves 4)
One tin of Paneer cubes
6 Red Onions finely chopped
2 pieces of Ginger finely chopped
6 Garlic Cloves finely chopped
1 Green Chili chopped
6 Cardamom seeds
6 Clove
Piece of Cinnamon stick
1 Star Anise
Black pepper corns
Handful of Cashew Nuts
1/2 teaspoon Turmeric Powder
1/2 teaspoon of Coriander Powder
1/2 teaspoon of Chili Powder
pinch of salt & pepper
2 tomatoes peeled and chopped
Open a tin of Panner and drain excess water. Deep fry until golden brown and then put to one side.
Heat 4 tablespoons of oil in pan and add finely chopped red onions, ginger, garlic, and chili. Once browned add Cardamom seeds, clove, cinnamon, star anise, black pepper corns, and cashew nuts to pan - followed by turmeric, coriander powder, chili powder, and a pinch of pepper. Heat together for a few minutes and then put into a blender until a paste is formed.
Put mixture with a little water back into the pan - add cubed tomatoes to pan and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Finally add the previously deep fried Paneer and simmer for a further couple of minutes.
Dish is complete. To serve add massive dollop of butter (heart attack alert) and some fresh coriander.
Nice served with coconut rice.
Yes please!
PANNER BUTTER MASALA (Serves 4)
One tin of Paneer cubes
6 Red Onions finely chopped
2 pieces of Ginger finely chopped
6 Garlic Cloves finely chopped
1 Green Chili chopped
6 Cardamom seeds
6 Clove
Piece of Cinnamon stick
1 Star Anise
Black pepper corns
Handful of Cashew Nuts
1/2 teaspoon Turmeric Powder
1/2 teaspoon of Coriander Powder
1/2 teaspoon of Chili Powder
pinch of salt & pepper
2 tomatoes peeled and chopped
Open a tin of Panner and drain excess water. Deep fry until golden brown and then put to one side.
Heat 4 tablespoons of oil in pan and add finely chopped red onions, ginger, garlic, and chili. Once browned add Cardamom seeds, clove, cinnamon, star anise, black pepper corns, and cashew nuts to pan - followed by turmeric, coriander powder, chili powder, and a pinch of pepper. Heat together for a few minutes and then put into a blender until a paste is formed.
Put mixture with a little water back into the pan - add cubed tomatoes to pan and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Finally add the previously deep fried Paneer and simmer for a further couple of minutes.
Dish is complete. To serve add massive dollop of butter (heart attack alert) and some fresh coriander.
Nice served with coconut rice.
Yes please!
Varkala Sunrise
Have not really felt the need to booze in India but arrived in Varkala with Aggie and feeling a little hot & bothered fancied a nice cold mojito. Slowly discovering why I'm probably not craving alcohol here. An electric green drink with a few limp floating mint leaves gets delivered to the table, maybe it will taste better than it looks - wishful thinking as it totally doesn't. A few nights later we venture to a place called Kerela Arts Cafe and try again on the old liquor front - we are recommended to try something called a Varkala Sunrise by the Nepalese waiter....this time a little more palatable and like turbo fuel.....wahey! Beggar's can't be choosers right. Get treated to a show at the Arts Cafe a little later. After the Indian Classical musicians have finished they turn up the speakers and blast out some old dance tunes where the local Indians jump up on the stage and proceed to dance with more energy and erratic moves than a firework factory struck down by a spot of arson. I almost split my sides with pure amusement. One guy even has to change his outfit as the first one is completely sodden with sweat. All the dancing boys are enjoying immensely and is really sweet to watch.Varkala is really cute. It's restaurants and shops are lined up along a clifftop walkway a couple of km's in length which overlook beautiful beaches and rolling waves that would be deemed surf worthy by those who dare try. A mixture of different types of people - slightly older holiday makers - (many of whom choose to sit around the pool in our resort day in day out, which don't get me wrong is lovely and make the most of the pool, but with such an amazing beach and view just 5 minutes away baffles me) - backpackers from far & wide - some funny local Indian characters.
Although sadly being a beach resort prices are rather inflated. Get my daily fix of Diet Coke though at least...ha ha.
Me & Aggie decide to take a cooking course with an English guy called James we met the previous day. It's run by a local Egyptian/Indian (and very handsome) guy called Khan who takes a shining to our very own Aggie. Sadly Aggie doesn't share his affections and tells him so the night before our cooking class. So we end up cooking in near silence scared to ask any questions as Khan clearly isn't too happy about the knock back (there is a poor American girl called Samantha also taking the course who isn't entirely sure what the hell is going on). Clock up a few more delicious recipes which will post my favourite shortly....someone please cook and report back to me!!! Thankfully Khan lightens up a little bit when his friend Raj arrives and we all sit down to enjoy the feast cooked. I'm still absolutely abysmal at making parotha's....
Days spent sunbathing, doing yoga, drinking fresh juices, swimming, eating fresh fish, generally bumming around......entirely delightful although after 7 days ready to venture back to the city.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Farewell
A sad day....
In Trivandrum, the capital city of Kerela, for one night before me & Aggie part ways with Ashley. We are heading to Varkala beach about 1 hour away to laze on the beach in the sun while Ashley will be focusing her mind & body at the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari.
Ashley - you have been AMAZING! Going to miss you dearly on my travels as we've had a lot of fun.
Much love lady & good luck with the rest of India & Thailand. May Hercules and Love Affair be with you....heh. x
In Trivandrum, the capital city of Kerela, for one night before me & Aggie part ways with Ashley. We are heading to Varkala beach about 1 hour away to laze on the beach in the sun while Ashley will be focusing her mind & body at the Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari.
Ashley - you have been AMAZING! Going to miss you dearly on my travels as we've had a lot of fun.
Much love lady & good luck with the rest of India & Thailand. May Hercules and Love Affair be with you....heh. x
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